If I had a penny for every time I heard someone say they were too scared to try a red lip because they wouldn't be able to pull it off... I firmly believe that there is a perfect shade of red lipstick out there for everyone. It's just a matter of trying them out, seeing how they work against your skin tone, and overcoming the newness of it all. At first try, it's going to seem very odd simply because you're not used to it. But give the right shade several chances, and the classic and elegant nature of the red lip will start creeping up on you. Here are a few tips on picking the right shade, what makeup to pair with a red lip, and applying lipstick so that it lasts as long as possible.
Ask to try it on. There are some items of clothing that you simply cannot buy without trying them on first. The same goes for red lipstick. If you are a red lipstick newbie, this rule is particularly important. Although many people advise you to stick to either blue- or orange-toned lipstick for pink- and yellow-toned skin respectively, I think there are exceptions to this, and you can only tell if a red lipstick works for you if you've tried it on. Reds either pop out just the right amount or are too intense or too weak against various skin tones, so it's up to you to explore. Who knows, you might even want to ease yourself into the red lip zone with a sheer tint at first. It's all very individual and personal.
Consider the rest of your makeup. Skin tone can affect how you pull off a certain lip colour. However, if you have some redness in your skin that's neutralised up by a more yellow-toned foundation, there's no use in shopping for a lipstick that's supposedly better suited to skin with pinkish undertones. So if you're out scouting for a red lipstick, put some base on or ask the shop assistant to apply some base along with the lipstick, and look at the big picture. Does the lipstick sit right with your foundation/BB cream/tinted moisturiser of choice?
Eye-lip balance is key. It is vital to not overwhelm your face with a complex colour palette when you're wearing a red lip. In most cases, red lips are intense, and demand a certain amount of attention on the face. I keep eyeshadow application to a bare minimum, usually using a shade close to my skin tone on the eyelids, and lining the lash line with a soft brown colour. My philosophy is to stick to soft neutrals on the eyes if you're going to give the red lip a go. The Urban Decay Naked and Naked Basics eyeshadow palettes are great starting points if you're wondering what colours to team with your bold lip.
Create as flawless a base as you can. Most reds tend to bring out any reddish flaws in the skin, simply because they're the same colour. Choose whichever base will provide you with the right amount of coverage, and conceal any red areas or spots with your favourite concealer. Don't forget to add some colour to the cheeks, as a strong red lip can drain colour from the rest of the face. I find that a peach or taupe blush, or even a bronzer (used sparingly) usually work best with a red lip. Bobbi Brown's Antigua, MAC's Harmony or Nars's Laguna are all worth a try.
Prep the lip. For some reason, my lips are very at risk of being chapped or just feel dry. I particularly can't stand it when red lipstick starts clinging onto flaky bits, so hydration and exfoliation are essential to a smooth red lip. I religiously slather on either Elizabeth Arden's Unfragranced 8-Hour Cream or the Nuxe Rêve de Miel lip balm every night before I sleep, and, in the morning, slough away at the dead skin with a cotton bud. You can also do this right before the lipstick application. It's not a very attractive image, I know, but this step is essential for the success of a red lip.
Pencil it in. Behind every long-lasting red lip look is a good layer of lip pencil. It is used not only to give the illusion of fuller and more even lips, but also to give an initial wash of colour that allows the lipstick to last. I like to draw the outline of my lips first, and then fill the entire lip in with the pencil. My favourite lip pencils for red lipstick are the MAC ones. They have the best selection of shades to match with most lipsticks, with Brick being the best all-rounder shade (I'm wearing Cherry in the photo above, underneath two layers of Chanel Rouge Allure in 104 Passion).
Layer, layer, layer. After you've filled your lips in, they are finally ready for some lipstick. The best application method for a long-lasting lip colour is with a lip brush. This really works the colour into the lip. The trick here is to add a layer of colour, and then to blot it with a tissue paper. You then repeat the process until you get the intensity of colour that you want. If you're in a rush or simply can't be bothered with the lip brush fuss, then by all means, apply the lipstick straight from the bullet. After all, it is shaped that way for a reason.
Here is a list of my favourite shades of red:
- Chanel Rouge Allure in 104 Passion
- Rouge Dior in 999 Ara Red
- Sleek True Colour Lipstick in 790 Cherry
- Nars Semi Matte in Heat Wave
- Nars Pure Matte in Mascate
- Lanolips Lip Ointment with Colour SPF 15 in Apples
I hope this gives you a bit of inspiration for dabbling in the world of a red lip. The red lip is a chic and timeless thing, and I think it works just as well in the day as it does for the evening. And of course, this look is for absolutely everybody to pull off.
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