Wednesday, 31 July 2013

Makeup: The Red Lip



If I had a penny for every time I heard someone say they were too scared to try a red lip because they wouldn't be able to pull it off... I firmly believe that there is a perfect shade of red lipstick out there for everyone. It's just a matter of trying them out, seeing how they work against your skin tone, and overcoming the newness of it all. At first try, it's going to seem very odd simply because you're not used to it. But give the right shade several chances, and the classic and elegant nature of the red lip will start creeping up on you. Here are a few tips on picking the right shade, what makeup to pair with a red lip, and applying lipstick so that it lasts as long as possible.

Ask to try it on. There are some items of clothing that you simply cannot buy without trying them on first. The same goes for red lipstick. If you are a red lipstick newbie, this rule is particularly important. Although many people advise you to stick to either blue- or orange-toned lipstick for pink- and yellow-toned skin respectively, I think there are exceptions to this, and you can only tell if a red lipstick works for you if you've tried it on. Reds either pop out just the right amount or are too intense or too weak against various skin tones, so it's up to you to explore. Who knows, you might even want to ease yourself into the red lip zone with a sheer tint at first. It's all very individual and personal.

Consider the rest of your makeup. Skin tone can affect how you pull off a certain lip colour. However, if you have some redness in your skin that's neutralised up by a more yellow-toned foundation, there's no use in shopping for a lipstick that's supposedly better suited to skin with pinkish undertones. So if you're out scouting for a red lipstick, put some base on or ask the shop assistant to apply some base along with the lipstick, and look at the big picture. Does the lipstick sit right with your foundation/BB cream/tinted moisturiser of choice?

Eye-lip balance is key. It is vital to not overwhelm your face with a complex colour palette when you're wearing a red lip. In most cases, red lips are intense, and demand a certain amount of attention on the face. I keep eyeshadow application to a bare minimum, usually using a shade close to my skin tone on the eyelids, and lining the lash line with a soft brown colour. My philosophy is to stick to soft neutrals on the eyes if you're going to give the red lip a go. The Urban Decay Naked and Naked Basics eyeshadow palettes are great starting points if you're wondering what colours to team with your bold lip.

Create as flawless a base as you can. Most reds tend to bring out any reddish flaws in the skin, simply because they're the same colour. Choose whichever base will provide you with the right amount of coverage, and conceal any red areas or spots with your favourite concealer. Don't forget to add some colour to the cheeks, as a strong red lip can drain colour from the rest of the face. I find that a peach or taupe blush, or even a bronzer (used sparingly) usually work best with a red lip. Bobbi Brown's Antigua, MAC's Harmony or Nars's Laguna are all worth a try.

Prep the lip. For some reason, my lips are very at risk of being chapped or just feel dry. I particularly can't stand it when red lipstick starts clinging onto flaky bits, so hydration and exfoliation are essential to a smooth red lip. I religiously slather on either Elizabeth Arden's Unfragranced 8-Hour Cream or the Nuxe Rêve de Miel lip balm every night before I sleep, and, in the morning, slough away at the dead skin with a cotton bud. You can also do this right before the lipstick application. It's not a very attractive image, I know, but this step is essential for the success of a red lip.

Pencil it in. Behind every long-lasting red lip look is a good layer of lip pencil. It is used not only to give the illusion of fuller and more even lips, but also to give an initial wash of colour that allows the lipstick to last. I like to draw the outline of my lips first, and then fill the entire lip in with the pencil. My favourite lip pencils for red lipstick are the MAC ones. They have the best selection of shades to match with most lipsticks, with Brick being the best all-rounder shade (I'm wearing Cherry in the photo above, underneath two layers of Chanel Rouge Allure in 104 Passion).

Layer, layer, layer. After you've filled your lips in, they are finally ready for some lipstick. The best application method for a long-lasting lip colour is with a lip brush. This really works the colour into the lip. The trick here is to add a layer of colour, and then to blot it with a tissue paper. You then repeat the process until you get the intensity of colour that you want. If you're in a rush or simply can't be bothered with the lip brush fuss, then by all means, apply the lipstick straight from the bullet. After all, it is shaped that way for a reason.

Here is a list of my favourite shades of red:
I hope this gives you a bit of inspiration for dabbling in the world of a red lip. The red lip is a chic and timeless thing, and I think it works just as well in the day as it does for the evening. And of course, this look is for absolutely everybody to pull off.

Sunday, 28 July 2013

Going-Out Makeup... In a Hurry


First things first: apologies for the long absence. I've just returned from a few days' holiday in Bournemouth, during which I indulged in my minimal makeup routine, and sometimes even in zero makeup! Must be the sea air that I missed so much working wonders for me. I slept better, I was careful with what I ate (but not in a calorie-counting way, think more along the lines of fresh, balanced meals and avoiding overeating), and I spent lots of time walking outdoors and swimming. Growing up by the sea in Hong Kong makes me realise that, although I love living in London, there will always be that seaside element that's missing in my life, but a few days in Bournemouth did me a world of good, and I'm back in London feeling refreshed and relaxed.

The pace of life picked up almost as soon as I was back in my London flat. I was getting ready to go out for dinner and drinks for a friend's birthday, but only had a few minutes to get dressed and pull together an evening makeup look. After a week of makeup (near) abstinence, applying a base and eyeshadow almost seemed like an alien concept. But I quickly got back into the swing of things, and started by applying my trusty Diorskin Nude BB Creme in 002 as a base. I used this sparingly, as I only wanted minimal coverage, and solely in the places where I could use a bit of evening-out of the skin tone, for example around the centre of the face and around the mouth. I then quickly pencilled through my eyebrows with the Shu Uemura Hard Formula Eyebrow Pencil in Seal Brown 02, and concealed any imperfections with my Nars Radiant Creamy Concealer in Custard. The concealing step took less time than usual, as the benefits that my skin reaped from a stress-free holiday by the sea meant that concealer was used in the tiniest quantity. What follows is the easiest eyeshadow step in the world. The secret here is the Maybelline 24hr Color Tattoo in 35 - On and on Bronze. I applied this handy cream eyeshadow on the lids with one finger, and blended the colour out at the edges (which should be located around the crease/eye socket area) with another clean finger. No brushes, no fuss, and you have a long-lasting and universally flattering bronze touch of colour on the lids. A curl of the lashes and a slick of Boots No7 Fanomenal Lashes mascara finished the eye look. I completed the look by dabbing some of the MaxFactor Miracle Touch Creamy Blush in 14 Soft Pink with my Real Techniques Stippling Brush on the cheeks for a slightly rosy tint.

This whole look took no time at all, and it was exactly what I needed for a relaxed evening out. I'm not big on the extreme smokey eye thing, but find that a hint of colour on the eyelids adds that little bit extra that updates a daytime look to an evening one. And, aside from the stippling brush, I used my fingers to apply most of the products. You could easily use your fingers for the cream blush, though.

So there you have it, a subtle evening look that can easily be achieved... in the nick of time.

Wednesday, 17 July 2013

The Bare Necessities



By not going back to Hong Kong this summer, I thought I would be escaping the sweltering heat that usually envelops the city. What I didn't foresee was that London would come to rival my hometown in the soaring temperatures department, with the only difference being that air conditioning is virtually non-existent in London. In these conditions, it's never a good idea to pile on the makeup. It simply does not feel nice, and it's likely to have melted off your face within an hour of being out and about. This has led me to strip my makeup routine down to the very basics that will not overwhelm my skin in 30-degree heat. 

Skipping base altogether, I start off by applying some Nars Radiant Creamy Concealer in Custard under the eyes and on any red areas under the nose. This formula is long-lasting without being too heavy, and provides excellent coverage in the places where you need it. I love that this can be used to cover up both dark circles and red areas or spots, making it the ultimate multi-purpose concealer with the perfect shade and consistency. Next up is my Shu Uemura Eyelash Curler. I find that eyelash curlers do a good job of making lashes seem longer and fanned out, and that makes it possible to go without mascara. And although waterproof mascaras are a necessity in the summer, they are such a pain to remove that only one product will do the job, and that's the Clarins Instant Eye Make-Up Remover. Now, it seems that many women cite mascara as the makeup product they would wear if they were to use just one. I'm gravitating more towards the idea that well-groomed brows are all-important. The hero product that's swaying me is the Shu Uemura Hard Formula Brow Pencil in Seal Brown 02. This imparts texture and fullness to the brows with incredible subtlety, and the colour is spot on for me, as I naturally have chestnut-brown hair and black eyebrows that are sometimes difficult to reconcile. Well, this pencil somehow manages to fix that slight incongruence.

There you have it, the only makeup things you really need for a day out in the sun. And one bonus is that less makeup equals less time spent getting ready. Win-win situation.

PS: Don't forget the sunscreen!

Wednesday, 10 July 2013

Only Skin Deep? #3: Beauty Sleep



Fact: nothing makes me feel better than a good night's sleep. The benefits can also extend to the condition and look of your skin. After all, there's a reason why it's called "beauty sleep". There are also several things you can do for shut-eye time to ensure that you wake up looking your best.

Catching your zzzs is important for the regeneration of cells. Although this happens constantly during the day, your skin is less subjected to the stresses of light and pollution when you sleep. The muscles in your face are also more relaxed when you sleep. This is why my evening skincare routine is more souped up than my AM routine, as my skin is more capable of making the most of the products that I apply. As with exercise, sufficient sleep helps with reducing levels of stress hormones that potentially cause skin problems, including acne and eczema. It also contributes to a healthier immune system, thus allowing your body to naturally fight off any infections and to heal faster.

Of course, there are several aids to maximising the benefits of sleep for your skin. Firstly, the position you sleep in can influence the state of your skin. Sleeping on your back reduces the amount of creases you get on your face. Some recommend sleeping with silk covers to avoid this problem, but that's going a little far for me. It's also worth taking a half-hour before you go to bed to unwind and relax. This can make your sleep more restful, and truly make you feel replenished when you wake up.

But for those times when I have trouble falling asleep, I have my own little snooze-prep routine. I start by moisturising my body with some of my trusty Laura Mercier Ambre Vanillé Soufflé Body Crème. This stuff smells so warm and comforting, just like a nice fluffy duvet feels. I then spray some of This Works Deep Sleep Pillow Spray on my pillow and at the top of my duvet, and proceed to breathe in, and out. This blend of lavender, camomile and vetiver oils is seriously somniferous, and focusing on your breathing also helps you to relax. If I have a particularly hard time dozing off, I rub a bit of the This Works Sleep Balm onto my pulse points. This is essentially the balm version of the Pillow Spray, so you get a double whammy of those soothing essential oils. Finally, I grab my earphones and listen to a slightly hypnotic track called 'Sleep Deeply' from the DigiPill app (free from iTunes App Store and Google Play, £3.99 for 'Sleep Deeply' in-app purchase). This app offers a series of 'digital pills', different tracks that include psychoacoustics and neuro-linguistic programming in order to help you achieve a certain goal. The goal, in this instance, is to fall asleep. The track lasts just under 30 minutes, and I can safely say that it has never failed me.

Sleep well, everyone!

Friday, 5 July 2013

The Spot-Zapping Trio


We all know how this one goes: you wake up, wash your face, and suddenly a dull pain surfaces as you pass over a barely visible pinkish lump. It threatens to grow into an angry pimple, and you have to resign yourself to disappointment or frustration (or both) about the situation. In my case, this is followed by an irrational desire to pop the darned thing(s). However, when faced with my latest stress-induced breakout, I decided to kill the spots with kindness, and found a winning combination of three products that do the job just fine.

After cleansing, I dab a cotton pad soaked in Aveda's Exfoliant all over my face to rid my skin of any dull or dead cells. This mildly acidic solution helps to prep the skin for any treatments that are to follow, and to truly get the most out of them. When spots flare up, I trade in my Clarins Toning Lotion with Camomile for La Roche-Posay's Serozinc. This zinc sulfate toning spray helps to kill any remaining bacteria as well as to hydrate your skin a bit, so that it is ready for moisturiser. This product is not available in the UK, but I'm in Belgium at the moment, and one of the first things I did when I arrived was to leg it to the nearest pharmacy and get a can of this magic stuff. Now, many may equate this product to Evian's Brumisateur, but this is on a whole other level. I've only used Serozinc several times, but it seems to have given the pimples that extra kick up the backside to get them to really GO AWAY. I apply this quite liberally, mostly because I can't get enough of that refreshing feeling you get from a spray can... Someone rein me in before I buy up the whole pharmacy stock! On top of the (copious) Serozinc, I layer some of LRP's Effaclar Duo only on the areas where spots are appearing. This treatment is formulated for acne-prone and oilier skin types, and my skin is quite dry, hence my sparing application of this product. 

After using this routine for just two days, I have noticed a clear difference with the spots. In a sense, it feels as though I nipped it in the bud before the breakout became quite serious. On my skin, this combination of products does not bring pimples to a head more quickly. Rather, it makes them less painful and prominent, whilst drying them out ever-so-slightly so that they become nothing more than a layer of dead skin (lovely, I know, but such is the reality of pimple treatment). Let me reiterate that my skin is dry and sensitive, and then tell you that these products have neither irritated nor dried out my skin. It is gentle yet effective, and you really couldn't ask for more from this dream team of spot-zappers.
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